Viruses in Copenhagen
In Feb 1975, a year after starting to work in the pathology research department. I was asked by my boss GK, to go to Copenhagen for a week to learn how to cultivate certain viruses that we used in the lab to proliferate cells for experimental use. I was pleased that I had the chance to go to Denmark as it would be my first trip to the country, it was only a shame it was in the middle of winter.
Cultivating viruses is not something one does everyday. Research was much more interesting than the routine work I had been doing in London. The idea to ‘make our own’ was to stop having to being supplied from the lab in Copenhagen who’s director Professor PE was a colleague of GK.
I was going overnight starting from Cologne to Puttgarden then the boat to Rodbuhavn and then again a train to Copenhagen. The overnight journey would take about 12 hours. Arrangements were made for transport and hotel. What surprised me GK generously booked me 1st. class.
Before I go on I first have to tell you about my appearance at that time as it will be relevant to what happened on the train. As said it was the mid 70s and my hair was down to my shoulders, my mode of dress was lets say slightly scruffy due to having little money to buy new clothes. Thinking about it even if I had had the money, clothes would have been the last thing I would have spent it on. It was also the time I was living with my parents and I was ignoring in principle any reasonable comments from them to my dress and hair code. In the summer of that year they went back to the UK after a long illness of my father (see Checkpoint Charlie).
So there I was boarding the train into the 1st class carriage with long unkempt hair which was a devil to keep in order, due to a combination of fine blond hair from my mother and black curls from my father. I was wearing jeans, t-shirt and jumper (I was told it was going to be cold) and my somewhat tatty looking parka.
I found a compartment to myself and settled in for the night. I saw no other passengers for the entire journey. As it wasn’t that late I though I would read a book before trying to get some sleep. After about 30 minutes we arrived at the next station and a few minutes later the controller came in and looked somewhat surprised to find someone with my not so 1st. class appearance taking up space reserved for 1st. class clientele.
With an impertinent air he asked for my ticket and by the smirk look on his face thought he would be marching me off to second class toot sweet. I knew the situation was not to his liking and I didn’t want to get into a discussion due to my very rudimentary German at the time, so I just smiled at him and silently handed over my ticket.
Then came for him a second surprise as I could see it was not what he was expecting. After a pause with a touch of confusion he asked for my passport, which I thought at the time was probably not allowed but I humored him and did so, again in silence.
Another surprised look. He was expecting I think a green/grey German one but it was the typical black British one for that time. Well he couldn’t find a fault with the paperwork only with my appearance. He handed back the ticket and passport and without a word turned and left.
I though that would be the end of it as after being controlled once, and he now knew my destination, that would be that and he wouldn’t bother me again.
How wrong I was.
After a while I decided to try and get some sleep. As I was alone in the compartment I removed my shoes stretch out and put my rolled up parka under me head and tried to doze off. What seemed like a moment later I was awakened by a loud agitated voice asking me for my ticket. I sat up and looked up.
There was the unfriendly controller from before.
I asked in a sleepy voice
“Warum?”
The only reply I got was
“Ticket” and an outstretched hand.
I didn’t understand what this all meant in my groggy state, so I rummaged about me until I found it folded in the back pocket of my jeans. I handed it over, he went through the motions of looking at it, handed it back and again left without a word.
I sat there slightly bewildered. I looked out the window and saw we were leaving a station. I knew the train was going to stop only a few times until we got to the boat and that tickets are controlled for any new passengers that alighted at each stop but why me again?
I formulated a theory as I settled back on the seats.
Like a recurring nightmare I was woken again by my nemesis. And again we went through the ticket producing procedure. This time I over exaggerated the searching phase as long as I could before finally extracting it from another hiding place and handing it over, all in slow motion. I think he realised I had cottoned on to what he was up to. He looked and left. I lay back and was gone to the world until I was woken again!
This time I stood up pulled out my ticket went right up to him stared into his eyes and almost rubbed the ticket under his nose.
To my surprise he didn’t look at it but just grinned at me and said
“Aussteigen!”
I turned and looked out, we were in Puttgarden the train terminal, and I had to get out to get onto the boat. I quickly unraveled my parka and put it on. Got my rucksack down from the overhead rack and on turning back realised I was alone in the carriage.
He had the last laugh after all!
The rest of the journey to Copenhagen was uneventful.
I left the main station and went in search of the hotel. I had to walk around the Tivoli which, in the frosty early morning light, looked as if it had been placed into a winter sleep by Snedronningen. The air was bitter cold and I noticed that there was hardly anyone about either because it was very early or Sunday or both. The hotel was fortunately not that far. I went through the formalities at reception and as I didn’t have to go to the institute until the next day fell on the bed and caught up on my interrupted night sleep. I woke mid afternoon due to my stomach rumbling. I only had a few sandwiches the previous evening and I needed sustenance. I went down to reception and asked were I could eat. As it was Sunday and too late for lunch and too early for dinner I was told the only place serving food was the buffet at the main station.
Ok I thought, I knew were it was as I had arrived there a few hours before, but I was a bit skeptical in general about food from railway buffets. As I didn’t want to wait until the evening I headed back to the station.
I entered the buffet to find it almost empty. There was a waiter doing his rounds and I asked him if I could partake of the buffet. He said yes and it would cost 26 crowns, about two pounds [Ed: Remember this was 1975, now worth in 2017 about 14 pounds]. I was a little taken back until he said it was all you can eat from eleven in the morning until seven in the evening! I looked at the spread and saw it was good so agreed. As half the time was gone I tucked in with bravo. Over the week if I wasn’t enjoying danish hospitality from members of the institute team, I spent my time there with a book, a lager and a full plate. Note the corners of the picture are missing as I took it diagonally.
The next morning I was picked up from the hotel by one of PE’s team and we took the bus to the institute. I was warmly welcomed and was shown over the week how to cultivate the viruses in cell cultures. The procedure was not difficult and I had as a result my own batch that would be shipped back to Cologne on my return.
I was invited by PE to an evening meal at his home which I gladly excepted. The team was cordial and we got on well together, they even talked to each other in English when in my presence so I didn’t feel out of place. What I found interesting was the way the Danes would talk to each other in that they used just the family name instead of their first names when on familiar terms. Thinking about it we also did this a 100 years ago when one remembers e.g. how Holmes and Watson talked to each other.
I had some spare time over the week, well quite a lot really. So by myself I roamed the city looking at the sights before going to the buffet and eventually to my room in the hotel. As the weather was not ideal for long excursions I only visited a few places.
I was told I should look at the Grundtvig’s Church as it was an example of expressionism architecture. I had to take the bus as it was quite a way from the center of the city. I was quite impressed. I didn’t get a chance to go inside, and as it was still bitterly cold I went round it, took a few pictures and caught the next bus back into town. I went of course to see the mermaid and take the mandatorily picture. All pictures here were taken with my plastic pocket camera.
The week went quickly and the journey back uneventful. A couple of days after my return GK came to me to say that my batch of cultivated viruses had landed at the Cologne/Bonn airport and I was to go and pick them up.
I took the bus to the airport and went directly to the Customs and Excise department as I knew where they were from having to pick up my electronic kits orders from the UK. They were in the basement and away from the bustle of passengers and incomprehensible announcements. It was very quiet and I had the feeling I was disturbing someone if I saw someone that is, the place was deserted.
I approached the counter and waited listening for signs of life. There was none.
I said “Hello” in a normal voice but had the feeling I had shouted.
I looked around for a bell to press or ring - nothing. I repeated the ‘Hello’ a little louder and to help I coughed. There was movement and a customs officer appeared from behind a screen. I smiled and handed over the paperwork that was sent from PE in Copenhagen.
He looked at it and disappeared for at least a minute.
On returning he held at arms length, as if it would try and bite or scratch him, a large parcel decorated with the obligatory coloured biohazard stickers. He carefully placed it on the far end of the counter and returned to stand before me with a document that looked like a Carnet (see Hungary IV).
He started to transfer information from the paperwork I brought with me to his form. He was doing well until he looked up and asked
“I need to know if in the container there is infectious substances that can affect humans or only affect animals or if contains solid carbon dioxide?”
I was slightly perplexed to the formulation of the question as I wasn’t really sure if the viruses could affect anyone or animals, and secondly there was dry ice in there too to keep the viruses frozen. I gave him a blank stare which animated him to show me his form and with the tip of his pen indicated to the question that need a answer.
I pondered a while and said
"Only animals, but also dry ice."
I thought it was better than saying I didn’t know and not making things possibly worse than saying 'can affect humans'.
He gave me a lingering look and entered what I had said.
Again he showed me the form, it was a question to ‘Quantity and Type of Packing’.
Before I could answer with 'twenty, one ml ampules', he asked
“What's in there and how many?”
This was a incorrect interpretation of the question and put me off my guard and I just blurted out
“Viruses!”
I realised my mistake as I said it, but before I could explain came
“Okay, and how many?”
Now I was really stumped!
This showed that he really had no idea of what was in the container and on top of that I really had no idea how many there were! I could probably have made a good guess if I had had with me the notes I made in Copenhagen, but off my head, just no idea.
I thought it was probably tactically a good idea to finish this as quickly as possible for both our sakes and give him a number that he would understand and said
“About ten to the power of eight.”
I got a blank look so I quickly followed it with
“About 100 million.”
It seemed that he was happy with this and scribbled something on the form. A further scan showed he was finished to the relief of both of us.
I got to sign the form and was handed a detachable copy. With a nod in the direction of the parcel I went and collected it from the counter and without looking back headed out the building in the direction of the bus stop.
I got a few funny looks on the bus due to the neon yellow stickers indicating the obvious content of the package, and although I kept it on my lap the entire journey the seat next to me stayed empty until I got out and walked to the Lab.
Cultivating viruses is not something one does everyday. Research was much more interesting than the routine work I had been doing in London. The idea to ‘make our own’ was to stop having to being supplied from the lab in Copenhagen who’s director Professor PE was a colleague of GK.
I was going overnight starting from Cologne to Puttgarden then the boat to Rodbuhavn and then again a train to Copenhagen. The overnight journey would take about 12 hours. Arrangements were made for transport and hotel. What surprised me GK generously booked me 1st. class.
Before I go on I first have to tell you about my appearance at that time as it will be relevant to what happened on the train. As said it was the mid 70s and my hair was down to my shoulders, my mode of dress was lets say slightly scruffy due to having little money to buy new clothes. Thinking about it even if I had had the money, clothes would have been the last thing I would have spent it on. It was also the time I was living with my parents and I was ignoring in principle any reasonable comments from them to my dress and hair code. In the summer of that year they went back to the UK after a long illness of my father (see Checkpoint Charlie).
So there I was boarding the train into the 1st class carriage with long unkempt hair which was a devil to keep in order, due to a combination of fine blond hair from my mother and black curls from my father. I was wearing jeans, t-shirt and jumper (I was told it was going to be cold) and my somewhat tatty looking parka.
I found a compartment to myself and settled in for the night. I saw no other passengers for the entire journey. As it wasn’t that late I though I would read a book before trying to get some sleep. After about 30 minutes we arrived at the next station and a few minutes later the controller came in and looked somewhat surprised to find someone with my not so 1st. class appearance taking up space reserved for 1st. class clientele.
With an impertinent air he asked for my ticket and by the smirk look on his face thought he would be marching me off to second class toot sweet. I knew the situation was not to his liking and I didn’t want to get into a discussion due to my very rudimentary German at the time, so I just smiled at him and silently handed over my ticket.
Then came for him a second surprise as I could see it was not what he was expecting. After a pause with a touch of confusion he asked for my passport, which I thought at the time was probably not allowed but I humored him and did so, again in silence.
Another surprised look. He was expecting I think a green/grey German one but it was the typical black British one for that time. Well he couldn’t find a fault with the paperwork only with my appearance. He handed back the ticket and passport and without a word turned and left.
I though that would be the end of it as after being controlled once, and he now knew my destination, that would be that and he wouldn’t bother me again.
How wrong I was.
After a while I decided to try and get some sleep. As I was alone in the compartment I removed my shoes stretch out and put my rolled up parka under me head and tried to doze off. What seemed like a moment later I was awakened by a loud agitated voice asking me for my ticket. I sat up and looked up.
There was the unfriendly controller from before.
I asked in a sleepy voice
“Warum?”
The only reply I got was
“Ticket” and an outstretched hand.
I didn’t understand what this all meant in my groggy state, so I rummaged about me until I found it folded in the back pocket of my jeans. I handed it over, he went through the motions of looking at it, handed it back and again left without a word.
I sat there slightly bewildered. I looked out the window and saw we were leaving a station. I knew the train was going to stop only a few times until we got to the boat and that tickets are controlled for any new passengers that alighted at each stop but why me again?
I formulated a theory as I settled back on the seats.
Like a recurring nightmare I was woken again by my nemesis. And again we went through the ticket producing procedure. This time I over exaggerated the searching phase as long as I could before finally extracting it from another hiding place and handing it over, all in slow motion. I think he realised I had cottoned on to what he was up to. He looked and left. I lay back and was gone to the world until I was woken again!
This time I stood up pulled out my ticket went right up to him stared into his eyes and almost rubbed the ticket under his nose.
To my surprise he didn’t look at it but just grinned at me and said
“Aussteigen!”
I turned and looked out, we were in Puttgarden the train terminal, and I had to get out to get onto the boat. I quickly unraveled my parka and put it on. Got my rucksack down from the overhead rack and on turning back realised I was alone in the carriage.
He had the last laugh after all!
The rest of the journey to Copenhagen was uneventful.I left the main station and went in search of the hotel. I had to walk around the Tivoli which, in the frosty early morning light, looked as if it had been placed into a winter sleep by Snedronningen. The air was bitter cold and I noticed that there was hardly anyone about either because it was very early or Sunday or both. The hotel was fortunately not that far. I went through the formalities at reception and as I didn’t have to go to the institute until the next day fell on the bed and caught up on my interrupted night sleep. I woke mid afternoon due to my stomach rumbling. I only had a few sandwiches the previous evening and I needed sustenance. I went down to reception and asked were I could eat. As it was Sunday and too late for lunch and too early for dinner I was told the only place serving food was the buffet at the main station.
Ok I thought, I knew were it was as I had arrived there a few hours before, but I was a bit skeptical in general about food from railway buffets. As I didn’t want to wait until the evening I headed back to the station.
I entered the buffet to find it almost empty. There was a waiter doing his rounds and I asked him if I could partake of the buffet. He said yes and it would cost 26 crowns, about two pounds [Ed: Remember this was 1975, now worth in 2017 about 14 pounds]. I was a little taken back until he said it was all you can eat from eleven in the morning until seven in the evening! I looked at the spread and saw it was good so agreed. As half the time was gone I tucked in with bravo. Over the week if I wasn’t enjoying danish hospitality from members of the institute team, I spent my time there with a book, a lager and a full plate. Note the corners of the picture are missing as I took it diagonally.
The next morning I was picked up from the hotel by one of PE’s team and we took the bus to the institute. I was warmly welcomed and was shown over the week how to cultivate the viruses in cell cultures. The procedure was not difficult and I had as a result my own batch that would be shipped back to Cologne on my return.I was invited by PE to an evening meal at his home which I gladly excepted. The team was cordial and we got on well together, they even talked to each other in English when in my presence so I didn’t feel out of place. What I found interesting was the way the Danes would talk to each other in that they used just the family name instead of their first names when on familiar terms. Thinking about it we also did this a 100 years ago when one remembers e.g. how Holmes and Watson talked to each other.
I had some spare time over the week, well quite a lot really. So by myself I roamed the city looking at the sights before going to the buffet and eventually to my room in the hotel. As the weather was not ideal for long excursions I only visited a few places.
I was told I should look at the Grundtvig’s Church as it was an example of expressionism architecture. I had to take the bus as it was quite a way from the center of the city. I was quite impressed. I didn’t get a chance to go inside, and as it was still bitterly cold I went round it, took a few pictures and caught the next bus back into town. I went of course to see the mermaid and take the mandatorily picture. All pictures here were taken with my plastic pocket camera.The week went quickly and the journey back uneventful. A couple of days after my return GK came to me to say that my batch of cultivated viruses had landed at the Cologne/Bonn airport and I was to go and pick them up.
I took the bus to the airport and went directly to the Customs and Excise department as I knew where they were from having to pick up my electronic kits orders from the UK. They were in the basement and away from the bustle of passengers and incomprehensible announcements. It was very quiet and I had the feeling I was disturbing someone if I saw someone that is, the place was deserted.
I approached the counter and waited listening for signs of life. There was none.
I said “Hello” in a normal voice but had the feeling I had shouted.
I looked around for a bell to press or ring - nothing. I repeated the ‘Hello’ a little louder and to help I coughed. There was movement and a customs officer appeared from behind a screen. I smiled and handed over the paperwork that was sent from PE in Copenhagen.
He looked at it and disappeared for at least a minute.
On returning he held at arms length, as if it would try and bite or scratch him, a large parcel decorated with the obligatory coloured biohazard stickers. He carefully placed it on the far end of the counter and returned to stand before me with a document that looked like a Carnet (see Hungary IV).He started to transfer information from the paperwork I brought with me to his form. He was doing well until he looked up and asked
“I need to know if in the container there is infectious substances that can affect humans or only affect animals or if contains solid carbon dioxide?”
I was slightly perplexed to the formulation of the question as I wasn’t really sure if the viruses could affect anyone or animals, and secondly there was dry ice in there too to keep the viruses frozen. I gave him a blank stare which animated him to show me his form and with the tip of his pen indicated to the question that need a answer.
I pondered a while and said
"Only animals, but also dry ice."
I thought it was better than saying I didn’t know and not making things possibly worse than saying 'can affect humans'.
He gave me a lingering look and entered what I had said.
Again he showed me the form, it was a question to ‘Quantity and Type of Packing’.
Before I could answer with 'twenty, one ml ampules', he asked
“What's in there and how many?”
This was a incorrect interpretation of the question and put me off my guard and I just blurted out
“Viruses!”
I realised my mistake as I said it, but before I could explain came
“Okay, and how many?”
Now I was really stumped!
This showed that he really had no idea of what was in the container and on top of that I really had no idea how many there were! I could probably have made a good guess if I had had with me the notes I made in Copenhagen, but off my head, just no idea.
I thought it was probably tactically a good idea to finish this as quickly as possible for both our sakes and give him a number that he would understand and said
“About ten to the power of eight.”
I got a blank look so I quickly followed it with
“About 100 million.”
It seemed that he was happy with this and scribbled something on the form. A further scan showed he was finished to the relief of both of us.
I got to sign the form and was handed a detachable copy. With a nod in the direction of the parcel I went and collected it from the counter and without looking back headed out the building in the direction of the bus stop.
I got a few funny looks on the bus due to the neon yellow stickers indicating the obvious content of the package, and although I kept it on my lap the entire journey the seat next to me stayed empty until I got out and walked to the Lab.
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